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The Best Pots for a Monstera

A monstera is a climbing plant sold as a bush. The right pot drains fast, holds a pole upright, and is still light enough to carry to the sink.

By Scooter M., enthusiast · Published

Large split monstera leaves in a pot indoors

The short answer

Use a pot with a drainage hole that is one size — about two inches — wider than the one the monstera arrived in, and put a moss pole in it at the same time. A 12-inch ceramic pot with a saucer is the right size for most store-bought plants; a 10-inch terracotta pot suits anyone who overwaters. Go to a 14-inch plastic pot only when the plant needs it, because a 14-inch pot of wet mix computes to about 40 lb before the plant is counted.

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A monstera is the most-searched plant on this site's planters pages by a wide margin, and almost every search is really two questions wearing one hat: what size pot, and why does mine keep leaning. The size question has an arithmetic answer. The leaning question has a product answer — a pole — and the two purchases belong together, because a pole is only stable in a pot that is heavy and deep enough to hold it.

The plant's habits set the brief. Monstera deliciosa is a climber with thick roots that want air; in the wild it grips a tree and sends aerial roots down. In a pot, that means it wants a mix that drains fast, a pot that dries in a reasonable number of days, and something vertical to hold on to. Everything below follows from those three, and the pots that fail monsteras are the ones that fail on the first two — oversized, or holed-less, or both.

What size pot a monstera actually needs

Go up one size at a time, which for pots means about two inches of diameter. That advice appears on every extension sheet on containers, and the reason is not aesthetic: a pot much larger than the root ball holds mix that no root is drinking from, and that mix stays wet for weeks. The volume arithmetic is worse than it looks, because volume rises with the cube of diameter.

What one size jump costs in wet mix

volume ratio = (D2 / D1)^3

10 in to 12 in: (12/10)^3 = 1.7 times the mix. 10 in to 14 in: (14/10)^3 = 2.7 times the mix, which is why the tempting two-step jump is the one that rots roots.

Pot volume here is 0.46315 x D^3 cubic inches, the figure used across this site. The pot size chart works through the rest.

What each monstera-sized pot weighs once planted and watered
Pot sizeMix volumeDryWateredRating needed
8 in0.137 cu ft3 lb7.5 lb12 lb
10 in0.268 cu ft5.9 lb14.7 lb23 lb
12 in0.463 cu ft10.2 lb25.5 lb39 lb
14 in0.735 cu ft16.2 lb40.5 lb61 lb
16 in1.098 cu ft24.2 lb60.4 lb91 lb
What each monstera-sized pot weighs once planted and watered. Potting mix only — your pot and your plant sit on top of these figures. Watered weight uses 55 lb per cubic foot, the upper-middle of the published saturated range; the rating-needed column applies this site's 1.5x margin. A 12-inch pot is the last size one person carries to a sink without thinking about it. From 14 inches up, plan to water in place — and a 16-inch pot is a two-person move on every repot. Where these numbers come from.

That table is the reason the picks below stop at 14 inches. A monstera in a 16-inch pot is a plausible plant, but a 16-inch pot of saturated mix computes to about 60 lb before the pot or the plant is counted, and at that point the plant caddy pages are the purchase, not the planter pages.

Drainage is not negotiable for this plant

Every pot below has a drainage hole, and this is the one criterion with no exception on this page. Monstera roots are thick and want oxygen; sitting in water rots them faster than almost any other common houseplant, and the first sign — yellowing lower leaves — is usually read as underwatering and answered with more water. If the pot you love has no hole, keep the plant in a holed nursery pot and drop it inside; the drainage argument in full is here.

Material is the second lever. Unglazed terracotta breathes through its wall and dries a pot noticeably faster than glazed ceramic or plastic. That is a feature if you overwater and a chore if you forget to water; the material comparison is the short version, and it is why one of the picks below is a plain clay pot two inches smaller than the ceramic one above it.

The pole is half the purchase

A monstera without something to climb leans toward the window, then sprawls, then snaps a petiole when someone brushes past. The fix is a moss pole set into the pot at repotting time, before the roots fill the mix, with the stem tied at two or three points. The aerial roots find the coir on their own; you do not need to bury them, and you do not need to soak the pole unless you want to encourage them.

  • Set the pole at repotting. Pushing one into a full pot later cuts roots and never sits straight.
  • Match the pole to the pot. A 30-inch pole is stable in a 10 or 12-inch pot; a 50-inch pole wants a 12-inch pot at least, and a plant tied to it at several points.
  • Tie loosely. Soft ties in a figure-eight, never wire. The stem thickens.
  • Expect to size up. A healthy monstera outgrows a 30-inch pole in a couple of seasons. The 50-inch set below is the second purchase, not the first.

Quick picks

Ranked, with the published figure each pick turns on. Tap a row for the full reasoning further down this page.

#ProductBest forPrice
1
LE TAUCI 12 in Ceramic Planter with Drainage and Saucer
LE TAUCI 12 in Ceramic Planter with Drainage and SaucerA 12-inch glazed pot with a hole and a saucer, which is the size where the weight conversation starts and most people have not had it.
A floor plant in something that is not plastic
2
INGOFIN 10 in Terracotta Pot with Saucer
INGOFIN 10 in Terracotta Pot with SaucerTerracotta at the size where overwatering does the most damage, because a 10-inch pot of wet mix takes a long time to dry from the top alone.
A large plant that keeps rotting in plastic
3
Quarut 14 in Plastic Planter with drainage and saucer, 5 gallon, 4 pack
Quarut 14 in Plastic Planter with drainage and saucer, 5 gallon, 4 packThe only sensible way to put four floor plants in matching large pots without adding sixty pounds of pot to sixty pounds of soil.
Four large pots for the weight of one ceramic one
4
Root & Vessel 14 in Full Depth Cylinder Pot with built-in tray
Root & Vessel 14 in Full Depth Cylinder Pot with built-in trayA full-depth cylinder rather than the usual tapered pot, which is the right shape for a plant with a deep root system and the wrong one for a shallow-rooted plant.
A deep root run for a tall floor plant
5
homenote 6.7 in Clear Plastic Nursery Pots with Drainage, 15 pack
homenote 6.7 in Clear Plastic Nursery Pots with Drainage, 15 packClear walls, which turn the one variable you cannot otherwise check, what the roots are doing, into something you can just look at.
Watching roots instead of guessing
6
imezos 30 in Coco Coir Moss Pole, bendable aluminum core, 2 pack
imezos 30 in Coco Coir Moss Pole, bendable aluminum core, 2 packThirty inches of coir on a bendable core, sold in a pair, which is exactly the size a monstera needs in the year it leaves a nursery pot.
The first pole for a monstera still in a 10 or 12 inch pot
7
LifeNest 50 in Coco Coir Moss Pole with plant ties, 3 pack
LifeNest 50 in Coco Coir Moss Pole with plant ties, 3 packFifty inches is the length a monstera actually reaches, and three of them in a pack is one for the plant and two for the plants it will become.
A monstera that has outgrown its first pole

Links to Amazon are affiliate links. Prices and availability are Amazon's and change without notice.

How we ranked these for a monstera specifically

Drainage first, then a size a store-bought plant is actually ready for, then weight once planted. A ceramic 12-inch pot with its own saucer leads because it is the size most monsteras need at their first repot and it is still a one-person lift. The terracotta 10-inch is the pick for anyone who has already lost a plant to rot. The 14-inch plastic pots are there for the year the plant needs them, at a fraction of the weight of ceramic in that size, and the clear nursery pots are the honest answer for anyone who wants to see roots before deciding anything. The poles are ranked by the size of plant they suit, not by length.

Which pot for which monstera
Your plantPotWhy
Just bought, in a 6 or 8 in nursery pot10 in terracotta or a clear nursery potOne size up; fast drying while you learn its schedule
Established, roots at the drainage hole of a 10 in pot12 in ceramic with saucerThe standard first repot; still liftable
Large, in a 12 in pot for two years14 in plastic with saucerCeramic at 14 in is a two-person pot; plastic is not
Any size, leaningThe pot it is in, plus a poleLeaning is a support problem, not a pot problem
Which pot for which monstera

Watering a monstera in each of these

The rule is to let the top couple of inches dry and then water thoroughly until it runs from the hole, which is why the saucer matters and why a pot with no hole cannot be watered this way at all. How often that is depends on the pot: terracotta at 10 inches might want water twice as often as glazed ceramic at 12 inches in the same room. A chopstick pushed into the mix and read like a dipstick beats any schedule.

One computed figure worth having: a 12-inch pot holds roughly 7 liters of water between bone dry and saturated, derived from the dry and saturated mix densities on the methodology page. That is not what you pour each time — the mix is rarely bone dry — but it is the scale, and it explains why a monstera in a big pot goes two weeks between waterings while the same plant in a 6-inch pot wilts in four days.

What we deliberately do not recommend

Pots without drainage holes, for the reason above. Very tall narrow pots, which look right for a climbing plant and tip the moment a pole and a heavy plant lean the same way. Self-watering pots for this plant — the reservoir keeps the lower mix wet, which is exactly the condition monstera roots dislike, and the self-watering comparison says so at length. And any pot at 16 inches or above for a plant that has not filled a 14-inch one, however good the price.

Every pick, in full

We have not handled any of these. What follows is what each listing publishes, what that means once you put a watered pot on it, and who should buy something else.

LE TAUCI 12 in Ceramic Planter with Drainage and Saucer

1. A floor plant in something that is not plastic

LE TAUCI 12 in Ceramic Planter with Drainage and Saucer

A 12-inch glazed pot with a hole and a saucer, which is the size where the weight conversation starts and most people have not had it.

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What the listing publishes
12 in ceramic, drainage hole and saucer included
Against a 10-inch pot
No weight rating is published for this product, so there is nothing to check. That counts against it here rather than being treated as neutral.

12 inches of saturated mix computes to about 25.5 lb before the pot itself, and a glazed ceramic pot this size is not light empty. This is a floor pot, not a shelf pot, and putting it on an unrated tiered stand is the mistake this site is built around.

It is also the size at which you stop moving the plant. A rated caddy underneath is the difference between cleaning behind it twice a year and never.

The saucer is included, which at 12 inches is worth real money. Large saucers are priced oddly high when bought alone.

What is good

  • Drainage hole and saucer at a size where both are usually extra
  • Glazed, so it does not sweat onto the floor
  • Heavy enough not to be knocked over

What is not

  • About 25.5 lb of saturated mix before the pot's own weight, so floor only
  • Ceramic at this size is genuinely fragile in a move
  • Slow-drying for plants that want to dry out

Skip it if you were planning to put it on a tiered stand. None of the tiered stands here publish a weight rating, and this is the pot that finds out.

INGOFIN 10 in Terracotta Pot with Saucer

2. A large plant that keeps rotting in plastic

INGOFIN 10 in Terracotta Pot with Saucer

Terracotta at the size where overwatering does the most damage, because a 10-inch pot of wet mix takes a long time to dry from the top alone.

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What the listing publishes
10 in unglazed clay with drainage hole and saucer
Against a 10-inch pot
No weight rating is published for this product, so there is nothing to check. That counts against it here rather than being treated as neutral.

A 10-inch pot of saturated mix computes to about 14.7 lb, and unglazed clay adds several pounds of its own. This is a floor or a low sturdy shelf, not a tiered frame.

The larger the pot, the longer the middle of it stays wet, and the more the porous wall earns its keep. The material advantage that is marginal at 4 inches is substantial at 10.

Clay at this size is fragile in exactly one way that matters: the rim chips if it is set down hard on tile.

What is good

  • The porous wall matters most at large pot sizes
  • Saucer included at a size where they are expensive alone
  • Heavy enough to anchor a top-heavy plant

What is not

  • Heavy before the mix goes in
  • Chips on tile
  • Needs watering noticeably more often than a glazed pot the same size

Skip it if the pot is going on a shelf. At roughly 15 lb of saturated mix plus several pounds of clay, this belongs on the floor unless the shelf publishes a number.

Quarut 14 in Plastic Planter with drainage and saucer, 5 gallon, 4 pack

3. Four large pots for the weight of one ceramic one

Quarut 14 in Plastic Planter with drainage and saucer, 5 gallon, 4 pack

The only sensible way to put four floor plants in matching large pots without adding sixty pounds of pot to sixty pounds of soil.

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What the listing publishes
Published 14 in top diameter, 10.2 in base, 5 gallon capacity; four drainage holes; saucers included; recyclable polypropylene; 4 pack
Against a 10-inch pot
No weight rating is published for this product, so there is nothing to check. That counts against it here rather than being treated as neutral.

At 14 inches the mix alone computes to about 40.5 lb saturated. A ceramic pot that size adds real weight on top of that; polypropylene adds almost nothing, which is the entire argument for plastic at large sizes and the reason it is what garden centers grow in.

Publishing the base diameter as well as the top is genuinely useful for a large pot, because 10.2 inches of base is what determines whether it tips when the plant grows tall and whether it fits the caddy you already own.

Four drainage holes and included saucers means the system is complete in one purchase. At this size a mismatched saucer is not a small annoyance — it is a wet floor.

What is good

  • Published top and base diameter, and capacity in gallons
  • Four drainage holes and matched saucers included
  • Negligible pot weight at a size where that matters most

What is not

  • It reads as plastic, which at 14 inches is hard to hide
  • A wide base needs floor space a decorative pot might not
  • Whiskey-barrel styling is not neutral

Skip it if the pot is the thing you want to look at. At this size a decorative pot with a plastic nursery pot inside it is the better answer.

Root & Vessel 14 in Full Depth Cylinder Pot with built-in tray

4. A deep root run for a tall floor plant

Root & Vessel 14 in Full Depth Cylinder Pot with built-in tray

A full-depth cylinder rather than the usual tapered pot, which is the right shape for a plant with a deep root system and the wrong one for a shallow-rooted plant.

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What the listing publishes
Published 14 in; full-depth cylinder profile; built-in tray; lightweight plastic with a glossy finish; stated made in the USA
Against a 10-inch pot
No weight rating is published for this product, so there is nothing to check. That counts against it here rather than being treated as neutral.

Most decorative pots are tapered, which means a 14-inch pot holds noticeably less soil than its diameter suggests. A full-depth cylinder holds more — around a third more than this site's standard tapered model predicts, so expect it to be heavier than the 40.5 lb figure for a tapered 14-inch pot.

That extra depth is a real advantage for a tall plant that needs a deep root run and anchorage, and a real disadvantage for anything shallow-rooted, where the extra volume is mix no root reaches.

The built-in tray removes the mismatched-saucer problem at a size where saucers are hard to find and expensive.

What is good

  • Built-in tray, so nothing to match separately
  • Full depth suits deep-rooted floor plants
  • Light for its size

What is not

  • Deeper means heavier when watered than a tapered pot the same width
  • Wrong shape for snake plants, succulents and other shallow-rooted plants
  • Glossy plastic finish

Skip it if the plant is shallow-rooted. Depth it will not use is mix that stays wet.

homenote 6.7 in Clear Plastic Nursery Pots with Drainage, 15 pack

5. Watching roots instead of guessing

homenote 6.7 in Clear Plastic Nursery Pots with Drainage, 15 pack

Clear walls, which turn the one variable you cannot otherwise check, what the roots are doing, into something you can just look at.

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What the listing publishes
6.7 in clear plastic with drainage holes, 15 per pack
Against a 10-inch pot
No weight rating is published for this product, so there is nothing to check. That counts against it here rather than being treated as neutral.

The reason to use a clear nursery pot inside an opaque cachepot is diagnostic: you can see root growth, you can see when water has actually reached the bottom, and you can see rot before the leaves tell you.

Fifteen pots is a whole shelf and a propagation run's worth of potting-up, at a per-pot price no ceramic reaches.

They are not attractive. They are meant to sit inside something else, which is also the arrangement that keeps a decorative pot with no drainage hole from killing a plant.

What is good

  • Root visibility that no other pot format gives you
  • Fifteen pots at nursery pricing
  • The correct inner pot for a decorative cachepot with no hole

What is not

  • Ugly on their own
  • Algae grows on the inside of a clear pot in a bright window
  • Thin plastic flexes when you lift a wet one

Skip it if you want the pot to be the visible object. These are working pots and they look it.

imezos 30 in Coco Coir Moss Pole, bendable aluminum core, 2 pack

6. The first pole for a monstera still in a 10 or 12 inch pot

imezos 30 in Coco Coir Moss Pole, bendable aluminum core, 2 pack

Thirty inches of coir on a bendable core, sold in a pair, which is exactly the size a monstera needs in the year it leaves a nursery pot.

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What the listing publishes
Published 30 in; 100 percent coconut fiber over a flexible aluminum rod; stated to work dry without soaking; 2 pack
Against a 10-inch pot
No weight rating is published for this product, so there is nothing to check. That counts against it here rather than being treated as neutral.

The pole is the part of a monstera purchase that most pot roundups leave out, and it is the part that decides whether the plant climbs or sprawls across the sofa. Thirty inches is the useful first size: tall enough to matter, short enough not to tip a 10-inch pot.

The aluminum core is the detail worth paying for. A rigid pole can only ever go straight up; a bendable one can follow a stem that has already leaned toward the window, which is every monstera bought from a store.

The listing states the coir works without soaking. Read that as convenience rather than performance — aerial roots still attach better to a pole that is kept damp, and nothing in the listing says otherwise.

What is good

  • Two poles, so the second is there when the first is outgrown or a second plant arrives
  • Bendable core follows a stem that already leans
  • 30 in is short enough to stay stable in a 10 in pot

What is not

  • No published core diameter, so how far it bends before it kinks is unknown
  • 30 in is outgrown by a healthy monstera within a couple of seasons
  • Coir sheds a little on the way into the pot

Skip it if the plant is already at knee height. A 30 in pole disappears inside a mature monstera, and the 50 in set below is the right length.

LifeNest 50 in Coco Coir Moss Pole with plant ties, 3 pack

7. A monstera that has outgrown its first pole

LifeNest 50 in Coco Coir Moss Pole with plant ties, 3 pack

Fifty inches is the length a monstera actually reaches, and three of them in a pack is one for the plant and two for the plants it will become.

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What the listing publishes
Published 50 in; coconut fiber over a solid aluminum bar stated to be rust-free; two kinds of plant ties included; 3 pack
Against a 10-inch pot
No weight rating is published for this product, so there is nothing to check. That counts against it here rather than being treated as neutral.

Length is the whole argument. A monstera that is climbing well adds a leaf node every few weeks, and the most common complaint about moss poles is that they are outgrown within a year. Fifty inches buys that year back.

The aluminum bar inside matters for a different reason than on the 30 in pole: at this height a pole carries real leverage from a plant that is a yard wide, and a solid metal core is what stops it folding when the pot is moved.

Ties are included, and two kinds of them. That sounds trivial until you are holding a stem against a pole with one hand and looking for string with the other.

What is good

  • 50 in covers a monstera from repotting to the ceiling
  • Solid aluminum core resists bending under a wide plant
  • Ties in the box

What is not

  • 50 in in a 12 in pot is top-heavy until the plant is tied at several points
  • Three poles is more than most apartments need
  • No published pole diameter

Skip it if the plant is in a 6 or 8 inch pot. A 50 in pole in a small pot is a lever, and the 30 in pair is the stable choice until the next repot.

Questions people actually ask

What size pot does a monstera need?
One size up from the pot it is in — about two inches wider — and no more. A store-bought plant in an 8-inch nursery pot goes to 10 inches; an established plant goes from 10 to 12. Jumping two sizes leaves the plant sitting in wet mix no root is using, and the cube rule means a jump from 10 to 14 inches is nearly three times the mix, not one and a half.
Do monsteras like terracotta or plastic pots?
Either works, and the choice is about you rather than the plant. Terracotta dries faster, which protects an overwaterer; plastic holds moisture longer and weighs a fraction of ceramic in the large sizes this plant eventually needs. The one non-negotiable is a drainage hole.
Should a monstera be in a deep pot?
A standard-depth pot with a hole is fine, and a very tall narrow pot is a tipping risk once a pole and a leaning plant are in it. Depth matters less than drainage and than not oversizing the diameter.
Does a monstera need a moss pole?
Not to survive, but to look like a monstera rather than a sprawl. It is a climber; given a pole at repotting time it grows upward, the leaves get larger, and it stops falling over. Set the pole when you repot, tie the stem loosely, and size up to a longer pole when the plant tops it.
Can I put a monstera in a self-watering pot?
You can, and we would not. A reservoir keeps the lower mix constantly damp, which is the condition that rots monstera roots. It suits thirsty plants like peace lilies far better. If you travel, a wick or spike into a pot with drainage is a safer fix than a reservoir pot.
How heavy is a monstera in a 12-inch pot?
The mix alone computes to about 25 lb saturated, using the planning density on this site's methodology page, before the pot and the plant are added. A ceramic pot can add several pounds more. That is why 12 inches is the last size we treat as a routine one-person lift.

Sources

Product specifications are quoted from each seller's own listing and are the seller's claim, not a measurement of ours.