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Grow Lights

How to Set Up a Grow Light Shelf

Nine steps to turn shelving you already own into the best plant position in the apartment, without buying new furniture.

By Scooter M., enthusiast · Published · Last updated

A shelving unit fitted with grow lights above rows of plants

The short answer

Mount linkable LED bars under each shelf rather than one fixture above the whole unit, put every bar on a single plug-in timer set to 12 to 14 hours, keep the bars as close to the plants as the manufacturer allows, and put something white behind and beside the shelf. That last step costs almost nothing and is the most noticeable improvement of the lot.

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Buying a purpose-built lit shelf is one option and adding light to a shelf you already own is usually the better one — cheaper, more flexible, and you get to choose the spacing rather than accepting whatever the manufacturer settled on. This is how to do it properly. It applies equally to a bookcase, a wire rack, a cupboard shelf or a plain plank on brackets.

The steps

  1. Pick the shelf before the light. Depth and clearance decide everything downstream: you need enough height between shelves for a plant plus a bar plus the recommended gap, which realistically means eight inches minimum and twelve is more comfortable.
  2. Choose linkable bars. Daisy-chained bars need one outlet, one switch and one timer. Non-linkable ones need one of each per bar, and that is the constraint that actually bites in an apartment.
  3. Check the mounting method against your shelf material. Magnetic mounts need steel; clips need a lip; adhesive needs a smooth, clean underside and is a one-way decision on furniture you may want back.
  4. Mount bars under the shelf above, not on top of the shelf below. Light from above is what a plant is built for, and it keeps the shelf surface clear for pots and saucers.
  5. Run two bars per shelf where the shelf is wide. One bar down the center of a 24-inch shelf leaves the front and back edges considerably dimmer, which shows up as plants leaning inward.
  6. Set the height using the manufacturer's recommendation, and get as close inside the range as the tallest plant allows. Intensity falls with the square of distance, so this is where the performance is.
  7. Put everything on one plug-in timer set to 12 to 14 hours. A timer that runs to clock time beats a cycle timer, which drifts every time you switch the shelf off.
  8. Add something white behind and beside the shelf — paint, card, or a sheet of foam board. Light that would have escaped sideways gets returned to the plants for almost nothing.
  9. Deal with the cables. Adhesive cable clips along the back edge of each shelf, so nothing hangs where a watering can swings. This is the step everyone skips and then lives with.

Spacing, in practice

A workable layout
Shelf widthBars per shelfNotes
Up to 18 in1Centered; edges are acceptable at this width
18 to 30 in2Split the width in thirds and place at the two divisions
30 to 48 in2 to 3Depends on bar length; overlap the ends slightly
Over 48 in3 or moreCheck total wattage against a single outlet
A workable layout

Power, and how much it costs to run

This is arithmetic you can do exactly, which makes a pleasant change in this category. Multiply the published wattage by the hours per day, divide by a thousand, and you have kilowatt-hours per day. A 40 W fixture on for 12 hours uses 0.48 kWh, which at typical residential rates is a matter of cents. Multiply by your own tariff and by the number of bars for the real figure — the answer is almost always smaller than people expect.

Daily running cost

kWh per day = watts x hours / 1000

4 bars x 20 W = 80 W x 12 h = 960 Wh = 0.96 kWh per day

Multiply by your own rate per kWh. Nothing here depends on a figure we would have to invent.

What goes on which shelf

  • Top shelf — the highest-light plants, because a top shelf usually gets ambient room light as well as its own bar.
  • Middle shelves — the workhorses: pothos, philodendron, peperomia, small ferns.
  • Bottom shelf — the heaviest pots, for stability, and the most shade-tolerant plants, because bottom shelves get the least spill light.
  • Not on any shelf — anything in a 10-inch pot or larger. That is 14.7 lb of watered mix on furniture that almost certainly publishes no rating.
What each pot adds to a shelf
Pot sizeMix volumeDryWateredRating needed
4 in0.017 cu ft0.4 lb0.9 lb2 lb
5 in0.034 cu ft0.7 lb1.8 lb3 lb
6 in0.058 cu ft1.3 lb3.2 lb5 lb
8 in0.137 cu ft3 lb7.5 lb12 lb
What each pot adds to a shelf. Potting mix only — your pot and your plant sit on top of these figures. Watered weight uses 55 lb per cubic foot, the upper-middle of the published saturated range; the rating-needed column applies this site's 1.5x margin. Multiply by the number of pots per shelf. Most domestic shelving publishes no capacity figure at all. Where these numbers come from.

Every pick, in full

We have not handled any of these. What follows is what each listing publishes, what that means once you put a watered pot on it, and who should buy something else.

Barrina T5 Grow Light Bars, 1 ft, 5000 K full spectrum, 4 pack

1. Adding light to a shelf you already own

Barrina T5 Grow Light Bars, 1 ft, 5000 K full spectrum, 4 pack

The retrofit answer: four short linkable bars that stick to the underside of shelving you already have, which is cheaper and more flexible than buying a lit stand.

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What the listing publishes
Four linkable 1 ft T5 bars, published 5000 K full spectrum, magnetic mount
Against a 10-inch pot
No weight rating is published for this product, so there is nothing to check. That counts against it here rather than being treated as neutral.

5000 K is published, and that matters. Color temperature is the specification that decides whether a grow light is livable in a room, and 5000 K is daylight-neutral rather than the pink-purple of a red-blue fixture.

Linkable means one outlet runs the set. Four separate lights on four plugs is how a plant shelf ends up with a power strip on the floor.

Magnetic mounting works on a steel shelf and not on a wooden one, where the supplied clips or tape become the mounting method.

What is good

  • Publishes color temperature, which most of this category does not
  • Linkable, so one outlet runs the whole set
  • Turns any shelf you already own into a lit one

What is not

  • One-foot bars need several to cover a shelf
  • The magnetic mount only helps on steel
  • Per-bar wattage is modest, so this supplements rather than replaces daylight

Skip it if you want one purchase that solves lighting. A lit stand arrives assembled and this is a retrofit project.

Barrina 5 Tier Plant Shelf with Grow Light, 40 W, 15.7 by 11.8 by 59.1 in

2. Published wattage and published dimensions

Barrina 5 Tier Plant Shelf with Grow Light, 40 W, 15.7 by 11.8 by 59.1 in

The only lit stand here that publishes both its wattage and its full dimensions, which is the difference between comparing products and comparing photographs.

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What the listing publishes
Published 40 W total; 15.7 by 11.8 by 59.1 in; 5 adjustable tiers
Against a 10-inch pot
No weight rating is published for this product, so there is nothing to check. That counts against it here rather than being treated as neutral.

40 W across five tiers is 8 W a tier. That is a modest figure and it is a real one, which is more than most of this category offers, and it tells you this supplements light rather than replacing a window.

15.7 by 11.8 inches is 1.29 square feet for five positions, about 3.9 plants per square foot, all lit.

Adjustable tiers plus published dimensions means you can work out before ordering whether your pots fit. Almost nothing else in this category lets you do that.

What is good

  • Publishes wattage and full dimensions
  • Adjustable tier heights
  • Nearly four lit plants per square foot

What is not

  • 40 W total is supplemental light, not a substitute for a window
  • 11.8 in depth takes 6-inch pots at most
  • No published weight rating

Skip it if you have no window light at all. 8 W a tier supplements daylight, and a windowless room needs the higher-output shelves here.

Questions people actually ask

Can I turn a bookshelf into a grow light shelf?
Yes, and it is usually the best-value route into lit growing. Linkable LED bars mount under each shelf with clips, magnets or adhesive, and you choose the spacing rather than accepting a manufacturer's. Check the clearance between shelves first — eight inches is the practical minimum.
How many grow light bars do I need per shelf?
One for shelves up to about 18 inches wide, two beyond that. A single bar down the middle of a wide shelf leaves the front and back noticeably dimmer, which shows up over a few weeks as plants leaning toward the center.
Do grow light shelves use a lot of electricity?
Less than most people expect. Multiply the published wattage by the hours per day and divide by a thousand for kWh: a 40 W fixture running 12 hours is 0.48 kWh, which at typical residential rates costs cents rather than dollars.
Should the lights be above or below the shelf?
Under the shelf above, shining down onto the plants below it. Plants are built for light from above, and it keeps the shelf surface free for pots and saucers rather than for fixtures.

Sources

Product specifications are quoted from each seller's own listing and are the seller's claim, not a measurement of ours.